DIY Box Cushion with Backer Board (No Sew and Piping Option)

Variations

Once you get the hang of making a basic box cushion cover, it’s fun to think about little ways you can personalize it. You don’t have to go overboard. Consider a few simple things that can make your cover feel special.

Fabric Choice
This is the most powerful way to set your tone. Choose a durable canvas or denim for a classic and long-lasting look like I did, or opt for a pretty print, linen, or a textured fabric like corduroy for character. If the chair gets a lot of use, consider something washable or maybe an outdoor fabric for durability.

Piping or No Piping
If you’re comfortable adding details, piping around the edges gives your cushion a crisp, tailored look. However, if you prefer to keep things simple, feel free to skip it. Your cover will still look polished without it!

Print Direction and Pattern Placement
If you’re using a fabric with stripes, florals, or a repeating design, consider how you want it to sit on the cushion. You can center it, run it lengthwise, or highlight a specific motif. It’s a small detail that makes a big difference in the finished look.

Fabric Combinations
For contrast, try using a different fabric on the cushion’s sides (called the boxing) than on the top and bottom. You will need to sew the fabric pieces together ahead of time, but wow, that would be such a fun way to add dimension and personality plus!

Staple Technique
While the function is the same, you can also play with how you fold and staple the corners for a slightly different look. It will be super subtle, but you can do crisp hospital corners or softly folded pleats, for example. Go with what suits your chair and your comfort level.

Make your Pattern

For the pattern, any kind of paper or cardboard will work. I love the Medical Pattern Paper on Amazon (affiliate link).

It’s relatively inexpensive, and it’s nice and thin, like commercial sewing patterns. I used this for my cushion pattern.

On the other hand, I chose rigid cardboard for the wood base pattern because it was stiff and could lay flat in the base of the chair to fit.

I taped cardboard pieces together as the cardboard sheets I had were too small.

You’ll need three different pattern pieces at most. Use the measurements you just took and create paper patterns.

Make one for the top of the cushion, one for the wooden base of the chair or bench, and one for the side panel strip that goes around the cushion (optional).

Your cushion and wood base may be the same size, or you may make them slightly different sizes.

My cushion is a bit different because I wanted to round the side edges, whereas my wooden base needed to have sharp corners to fit snuggly in the chair. 

For the side piece, measure the length around the cushion and the height of your foam insert plus the wood plus approximately 3-4 inches to pull to the bottom of the base. 

If you are cording, you could also make a pattern for the width of the bias strip, but it is not necessary.

To make sure that your pattern is symmetrical, you may want to cut out half of your pattern shape and flip it over, then repeat it.

As you draw each shape on paper, add in all of the dimensions. This process will ultimately help you determine how much fabric you need to purchase.

IMPORTANT Remember to add a seam allowance either into your pattern or when cutting out your fabric.

Instructions

Below, I walk you through each step. It’s very easy, really! Trust me, it only looks long because I cover every detail. 🙂

Fabric Piping

Fabric piping, also called welting or cording is the fabric-covered trim you find on a variety of upholstered furniture, slipcovers, pillows, and headboards. Piping gives all projects a tailored and professional look.

In simple terms, bias piping is cutting strips of fabric out on the bias (diagonal direction) of your fabric and wrapping it around the cording rope.

The cord that is sandwiched within the fabric gives the piping shape and strength.

Cutting fabric on the bias better allows it to stretch and wrap around the curves of your cushion. Piping can then be sewn into the seam edges of your cushion and adds beautiful detail.

For added interest, consider contrasting the fabric of your piping to that of your cushion. Play with patterns or prints that compliment your base fabric.

It’s worth the time to add it to your project, and it’s easy, trust me!

Never fear, though. You can also purchase piping in a variety of colors and sizes. Or skip the piping altogether because your cushion will still look beautiful either way.

Fabric

Take the dimensions or your drawing itself to your local fabric store.

Their staff will help you figure out the best way to layout the pattern on the fabric and how much fabric you need for your DIY seat cushion.

Many fabric retailers have home decor departments with great upholstery fabric suitable for use inside or out.

As you shop for fabric, consider the amount of use the chair or bench will get. Be sure it is thick and durable enough for it’s intended use. I purchased my fabric at (our old beloved) JoAnn Fabrics.

Fabric Prep

Once you have bought your fabric and brought it home, pre-wash it if you’d like, but chances are once your cover is finished and stapled in place, you won’t be taking it off to wash.

You may, however, want to wipe it down occasionally.

I would strongly suggest applying a Scotchgard Fabric & Upholstery Protector (affiliate link) to protect and waterproof it.

Scotchgard works like magic and will keep your cushion looking new for much longer. Follow the directions on the canister before you apply it.

Assembly

I have broken down the directions for putting it all together, step by step, so it may look long, but it is not hard at all! It’s fast & easy to make DIY seat cushions. Let’s get started!

Wood platform and foam insert

1 Measure the base of your chair or bench. Determine the size for the base and the cushion.

They may be the same size or slightly different. It’s up to you.

2 Create a paper or cardboard pattern for the cushion, base, and the side panel. (A pattern for the side panel is optional as it is a straight long piece, but it can help when cutting out your fabric.)

3 Draw or trace the base pattern out on plywood.

4 Cut the plywood base out with a circular saw. Put the wood in place on your chair or bench to be sure it fits properly. Cut or sand to fit if necessary.

5 Trace the cushion pattern onto foam insert with a Sharpie marker or pen.

6 Cut your foam cushion to size with an electric knife.

This is SO easy and kind of fun! Holding the electric knife vertically, cut on the marker outline. It does not have to be perfect.

It’s also worth noting, this DOES NOT destroy your electric knife. You can reuse your knife for food. No worries, it cleans up well. Just don’t tell your guests what you’ve been up to.😁

Wrapping the insert

7 Put the cushion in place to see if it fits properly. Cut more foam off if necessary to fit.

8 Cut the batting to fit your cushion. There are 2 options.

A) For mine, I cut one piece that was slightly larger than my cushion.

I used the cushion as my guide. My batting then sits on the top of the cushion and rolls over all four edges slightly.

B) But for more security, you could also add batting to the top, then wrap around the front of the foam cushion, continuing to the bottom.

You do not need to cover the other 3 sides. In other words, skip the left, right and back of the cushion.

I used my sewing scissors to cut the batting and it worked great.

After you have cut the batting to fit, smooth it and stretch it to fit over the cushion. You will find it stretches, and forms very easily.

Secure it with a spray adhesive like Scotch Super 77 (affiliate link).

This adhesive holds the batting in place, which makes it easier to put the cover on and keeps everything more secure when the cushion is in use.

Batting is optional, but it will protect the foam insert. More importantly, it softens and smooths the square edges and improves the overall look.

9 Cut out your fabric pieces. You will need the top, and side pieces.

If you making cording, you will be cutting bias strips of the fabric also.

Putting the cover together

10 You may have to piece the side panel together because it is so long. If you have more than one piece, sew the side pieces together now.

With the right sides of the fabric together stitch the side pieces at their ends. Then on the wrong side of the fabric, press the seam(s) open.

This will help the fabric lay nice and give the outside of your cushion a finished look (if it shows ☺️).

11 Make fabric piping. Read the above and see the tutorial here. Piping tutorial

12 Pin, then baste the cording around the top of the cushion.

13 To finish, overlap the cording ends where they come together, then stitch.

14 With the right sides together, sew the top cushion piece to the side panel around the cushion edge. If you are using piping, sandwich it between the two.

I usually baste first, sew once around with a longer seam length. This ensures everything fits well before your final stitch.

And if it doesn’t fit, the long stitches are easy to rip out. If all looks good, stitch around for one more lap with a smaller length stitch and closer to the piping.

15 To close up the side panel, overlap the two end. Trim if necessary so the overlap is an inch or two. Fold one end inside 1/4 inch and press to finish the edge.

Use this finished edge to cover up the unfinished one underneath, by overlapping it. Stitch over the top of both so it closes up the back.

16 Another view of the overlap of #15.

17 Stitch vertically down the side panel to close.

18 The cover is finished and ready to “install.” It’s a great time to give your cover a good pressing. Pull it over an ironing board if possible.

Finishing

19 Optional. Trim the seam allowance in half along the top of the cushion. It’s important to keep some seam allowance but you just don’t want it to be bulky.

20 Align the base, foam cushion and batting, then pull the cover over them until the top is positioned just right. Smooth with your hands and adjust so it is even, flat and taut. As you pull the cover over the foam, gently smooth the fabric around each rounded corner. Don’t worry if there seems to be a little extra fabric. Just ease it evenly around the curve as you staple, and the corners will become smooth and rounded.

21 You are ready to staple! You can do this alone, but it is helpful to have a partner to assist you. One person can hold the fabric tight, and one can staple.

22 Review staple placement. Pull up any that are not flush to the wood. Flip cushion to check for smoothness, adjust, and staple more if necessary.

23 Plop the finished cushion in place … and take a seat! You deserve it. 😉

Please comment below on how your cushion cover turns out! I’d love to hear from you. Be sure to subscribe or follow me on social media for more inspiration!

Thanks for following! 😊 
xo,
Cindy

About Bloom

Cindy Munson is a lifelong sewer, pattern designer, and former graphic design studio owner. She shares approachable, stylish sewing projects through her blog, Be Brave and Bloom. Her mission is to help others discover the joy of making and live a more creative life. Cindy works from her sunny sewing studio in Minnesota, where she lives with her husband of over 30 years.